Mushrooms
This is the second knitwear collection for
accessories that has been inspired by texture in nature and realised in knitted
structures. Inspiration for the first collection produced this year was based
upon animal skins, specifically rhino and elephant. This collection has found inspiration
from mushrooms and fungi, their gills, colours and the texture of the fruiting
bodies, continuing the natural theme and exploring texture within knitted
structures. The mushrooms and fungi are a great source of inspiration as there
is such a huge variety of them available.
As a knit designer the texture and structure of
the fabrics is of great importance, to provide a tactile sensation that feels
interesting, but also be practical too. The
final finish of the fabric is also of importance, enabling the fabric to
provide a nice handle as well as having the potential for different end purposes,
for example, knitted scarves, garments or interior accessories. Alternate
finishing techniques for the knit fabric have been explored, some samples
utilised the felting properties to thicken the fabrics making them softer and
more luxurious.
The gills and stalks of the fungi influence the
designs as they come in a variety of shapes, colours and textures which make
them unique and can be interpreted in many ways to create interesting colour
combinations and textural effects. From
these a range of knitted fabrics were developed that compliment each other,
using the same colour palette throughout and a continuity of knit stitches. The texture of the knits are very important,
so close attention has been paid to the detail of the structures within the knitting.
The design and technical production of the
fabrics have stretched skills and increased knowledge, meaning a greater
understanding of structures within weft knitting has been developed. A lot of
experimentation went into the development and selection of which techniques
could be used and work well together. Calculation for stitch numbers was
considered in every sample and time was taken to produce small samples of knit
structures, which can be found as part of the sketchbook work, to then develop
and use together as part of a collection. The colour palette was introduced
after the textures and patterns had been considered. Development of these
initial samples sees a mix of techniques and a body of work form. To challenge
the design aspect of the collection, colours that are considered difficult to
work with, such as yellow as not everyone can wear it, were used to stretch
design capabilities.
The desired qualities of the knitted fabrics is
to be interesting for the eye, to be very tactile to make the viewer want to
touch and interact with the fabrics. The
colour palette is taken from the mushroom and fungi inspiration. The yarn used in the main is 100% Lambswool,
as this natural fibre produces soft fabrics that hold the knitted structures
well. The other yarns used are a mix of synthetic and natural fibres as they
are tactile yarns that produce textures and effects of their own when knitted
plainly.
Wool as a fibre can be a trans-seasonal material in
that it can be worn throughout the year addressing some of the sustainability
issues of fast fashion. The wool can be worn in-between seasons too, as the
pockets created by the textures will hold warm air and act like an insulator,
regulating the heat between the body and the air around it, meaning the body
will feel warm in colder weather and a consistent temperature in warmer
weather. The fabrics that have been created for this collection are of a high
quality, aiming at one off designs and handmade batch orders, so the overall
cost of the items will be higher due to the amount of time and the quality of
materials selected. These fabrics end
uses are aimed at fashion accessories such as scarves, but some of the plainer
samples could also be employed for fashion garments.
The development over the final year has seen
increased knowledge in knitted stitch structures and a growing confidence using
the industrial knitting machines and the associated software. An ability to work with colour, developed
alongside an understanding of different fibres and weight of yarns has also
been developed.
As a graduate knitwear designer employment within
a design studio would be very appealing in enabling a continuing development of
skills and hands on creation of swatches, in order to keep creating beautiful fabrics
that can be sold on a freelance basis.
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