Statement Of Practice


Mushrooms

This is the second knitwear collection for accessories that has been inspired by texture in nature and realised in knitted structures. Inspiration for the first collection produced this year was based upon animal skins, specifically rhino and elephant. This collection has found inspiration from mushrooms and fungi, their gills, colours and the texture of the fruiting bodies, continuing the natural theme and exploring texture within knitted structures. The mushrooms and fungi are a great source of inspiration as there is such a huge variety of them available.

As a knit designer the texture and structure of the fabrics is of great importance, to provide a tactile sensation that feels interesting, but also be practical too.  The final finish of the fabric is also of importance, enabling the fabric to provide a nice handle as well as having the potential for different end purposes, for example, knitted scarves, garments or interior accessories. Alternate finishing techniques for the knit fabric have been explored, some samples utilised the felting properties to thicken the fabrics making them softer and more luxurious.

The gills and stalks of the fungi influence the designs as they come in a variety of shapes, colours and textures which make them unique and can be interpreted in many ways to create interesting colour combinations and textural effects.  From these a range of knitted fabrics were developed that compliment each other, using the same colour palette throughout and a continuity of knit stitches.  The texture of the knits are very important, so close attention has been paid to the detail of the structures within the knitting.

The design and technical production of the fabrics have stretched skills and increased knowledge, meaning a greater understanding of structures within weft knitting has been developed. A lot of experimentation went into the development and selection of which techniques could be used and work well together. Calculation for stitch numbers was considered in every sample and time was taken to produce small samples of knit structures, which can be found as part of the sketchbook work, to then develop and use together as part of a collection. The colour palette was introduced after the textures and patterns had been considered. Development of these initial samples sees a mix of techniques and a body of work form. To challenge the design aspect of the collection, colours that are considered difficult to work with, such as yellow as not everyone can wear it, were used to stretch design capabilities.

The desired qualities of the knitted fabrics is to be interesting for the eye, to be very tactile to make the viewer want to touch and interact with the fabrics.  The colour palette is taken from the mushroom and fungi inspiration.  The yarn used in the main is 100% Lambswool, as this natural fibre produces soft fabrics that hold the knitted structures well. The other yarns used are a mix of synthetic and natural fibres as they are tactile yarns that produce textures and effects of their own when knitted plainly.

Wool as a fibre can be a trans-seasonal material in that it can be worn throughout the year addressing some of the sustainability issues of fast fashion. The wool can be worn in-between seasons too, as the pockets created by the textures will hold warm air and act like an insulator, regulating the heat between the body and the air around it, meaning the body will feel warm in colder weather and a consistent temperature in warmer weather. The fabrics that have been created for this collection are of a high quality, aiming at one off designs and handmade batch orders, so the overall cost of the items will be higher due to the amount of time and the quality of materials selected.  These fabrics end uses are aimed at fashion accessories such as scarves, but some of the plainer samples could also be employed for fashion garments.

The development over the final year has seen increased knowledge in knitted stitch structures and a growing confidence using the industrial knitting machines and the associated software.  An ability to work with colour, developed alongside an understanding of different fibres and weight of yarns has also been developed.


As a graduate knitwear designer employment within a design studio would be very appealing in enabling a continuing development of skills and hands on creation of swatches, in order to keep creating beautiful fabrics that can be sold on a freelance basis.

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